The Counter at Kokyu — Yuko's Table

KounterIntelligence ~ The counter at Kokyu Chinese Restaurant, Fujikwaguchikomachi

Near the base of Japan’s picturesque Mt Fuji, in Fujikawaguchikomachi by Lake Kawaguchi there is an unassuming Chinese restaurant named Kokyu.

Charmingly alpine in atmosphere and with wood lined interiors, Kokyu may seem small and low key but don’t be fooled, this little gem has its own claims to fame: Shintaro Abe, Prime minister of Japan, makes a point of dining there whenever he is playing golf in the area. I first met the chef and proprietor of Kokyu, Takashi Miyazawa, over dinner at a friend’s home in San Francisco when he and his wife, Kaoru, were on a short trip visiting SF and the wine country. After going shopping with him to one of our local shops, he cooked dinner for us before returning to Japan. And as the saying goes, it was the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

At Kokyu, Takashi cooks the food and Kaoru runs the floor, a family run place. I learned that when Takashi was a chef at a famous French restaurant in Tokyo’s Ginza district, but for some reason, he decided to learn Chinese cooking! So, while at the top of his game, he left the French restaurant and started apprenticing at a Chinese restaurant in Roppongi. He shared with me that he had a big plan all along. His real goal was to leave Tokyo and move to the Lake Kawaguchi area where he could pursue his love of fishing and open a small restaurant nearby to support it. And that is exactly what he did. After learning all he could and honing his Chinese culinary skills he quit Tokyo - restaurant, home and all and moved to Lake Kawaguchi with his then very pregnant wife and opened Kokyu. With years of experience creating excellent French AND Chinese cuisine behind him, the food at Kokyu is fresh, local, and delicious.

My first visit to Kokyu started out to be a slow night, just me. But then one of the regulars called in, the CEO of a fishing tackle company, to say that he would be coming in for dinner. It was his birthday and he would be solo. I was seated at a small counter that probably can seat 6 people max. in an intimate area partitioned off from the rest of the dining room and closest to the kitchen. The vibe really is like being at someone’s home, very personal, cozy. THIS is what I love about eating at counters: intimate, just a few guests, proximity to the food as it is being prepared - special. For me, the counter experience at Kokyu was definitely that. All these elements, all pulled together, created an atmosphere that was so much fun it all seemed effortless and simple. I remember laughing a lot. The food was excellent and bubbly was served to celebrate the CEO’s birthday. We also enjoyed some very nice wines, because, as I discovered, both Takeshi and Kaoru have good knowledge of wine and they often host wine events at their restaurant. Regulars all hang out at the counter and have dinner there, and it would be great to be there on one of those nights but the thing is, whenever I go visit Kokyu it’s in November when there’s nobody around. The area around Lake Kawaguchi is a summer resort destination and most homes are second homes, and many businesses are seasonal and closed during the fall and winter. But not Kokyu, they are open year round. They are die-hards; like the USPS creed: neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these restaurateurs to feed the hungry patrons.

The following year, I returned to Fujikawaguchikomachi, my second visit, to see Takashi and Kaoru and dine at their restaurant. The CEO showed up and we had another private dinner, slow November night again. It was nice, a pleasant camaraderie, sitting at the counter enjoying great food and company. I was touched to learn that Takashi went fishing specifically to prepare some dishes for me with his catch - tai snapper. He made several dishes, including a chinese tea smoked fish served over noodles in fish broth.

Now, whenever I go to Japan, I try to make the 2 hour side trip to have dinner at Kokyu counter and catch up with Takashi, Kaoru and the CEO, if he’s around. Each time it feels like a reunion and I believe a tradition has begun.

Kokyu 5407 Kodachi, Fujikawaguchiko, Minamitsuru District, Yamanashi 401-0302

+81-0555-83-3340 (the pics aren’t the best - quick snappies while busy eating)